2 Weeks in Japan - Part 1
By Aimee on
We have just gotten back from an amazing adventure travelling around Japan. We had been planning this trip for what seemed like forever but was honestly only about 6-8 months. I had never been to an Asian country before but my partner had already spent a year living and working in China. Not that China and Japan are the same but for me it was a big difference to what I had seen and done before. This article will outline the things that we were able to do on our two week adventure. I will be splitting this article into two as their is a lot of reading. Part one will talk about Osaka and Kyoto, the second part will be all about Nagoya and Tokyo. I will also be doing a separate foodie article but this one does mention a lot of the food we did eat over there. Also warning!! PIC HEAVY !!
Now we had a bit of a budget in mind for this trip, approx 8,000 yen a day and all of our flights, accommodation, and some activities had all been paid before hand. I’ll explain what we paid before the trip as I go through. So first off we flew out of Australia and had a long stop over in Kuala Lumpur, if you have a long stop over pay for the premium lounge they have there! It is money well spent. You get a shower, all you can eat and drink (including beer) free wifi and an amazing 15 minute back shoulder and neck massage. It is worth it just for that let me tell you! Especially after already being on a long flight and knowing in a few hours you’ll do it again. After that lovely massage it was off to Osaka on the last leg of the inbound trip. We didn’t bring any checked luggage with us so getting through customs was a breeze. You’ll find that they do lines really well in Japan, very orderly people.
Osaka
So we get into Osaka at 8 in the morning and we are tired as tired. Sam isn’t even functioning and I’m just glad I did my research. We activated our Japan Rail Passes and we were off to the City. The JR pass was something we paid for before and it was worth it. You can only purchase them from over sees and you can get a few different lengths. We went with the 14 day pass and we loved them. They get you on all JR lines and even the Shinkansen (super fast train) that goes between major cities. Our planned stay in Osaka was for 5 nights through an AirBnB and we weren’t disappointed.
Day 1
Now, where were we, right! Our first stop was a lovely little stroll through Tennoji park towards the Tsutenkaku tower in Shinsekai. Our main objective was FOOD! And we were not disappointed. We stopped in at this cute little udon restaurant just outside of the tower, I had tofu udon and Sam had a curry udon and mine was amazing. After that it was up the tower we went. As you enter the little shop before going up all you see is pockies (chocolate or other flavoured coated pretzel/bread sticks that I am now in love with. Don’t delay, get them here) oh and PEZ. I think from memory it was only a couple hundred yen to get in and that leads you to the top where you get an incredible view. People are there to take your photo if you want a souvenir, they dutifully make you look at everything by setting up some kind of maze system and try and sell you everything too but honestly just go there for the view. We attempted going from Shinsekai to Nipponbashi (Den Den Town) but we didn’t have maps or internet or caffeine to help us think so we wandered around until we decided we could probably check into our room. Luckily once we got there we could go in and relax a bit and have a nap, we were exhausted. Now July is a hell of a time to go to Japan. Not so busy but bloody hot, humid, and occasionally wet and rainy. We were pretty lucky but just prepare yourself to turn into a liquid from the sweat. (Sorry I know that’s kinda gross) OK so post nap we then went to Dontonbori, which is the main night life hub of Osaka. We wandered around looking at all the lights and signs and moving crabs until we saw a line for this cool looking Okonomiyaki place. Turns out it was the oldest Okonomiyaki restaurant in Osaka, and it was worth the wait. If there’s a line for something expect it to be good because it usually is in Japan. We tried our first round of Sake too and had quite the pleasant evening. A stroll along the river then ended back at home.
Day 2
First stop on our list was Osaka Castle. The trains are fairly easy to navigate, but even easier with some Google maps and internet. I highly recommend organising a pocket wifi. We were lucky enough to have this as part of our AirBnB but if not then it is easier to get around with some data. The walk there from the train station is through this gorgeous park, you go up a number of stairs and fairly steep tracks before you get to the base of the castle where you need to get yourself an icecream. Try the green tea one, its very refreshing. The castle itself is stunning from outside and in, It actually burnt down so the one you’re looking at is a remake. They have a museum inside which is pretty cool and gives you a history of the summer wars in Japan. Speaking of summer, if you go then bring sunscreen and prepare to chafe. I was majorly sunburnt and because of the humidity I kinda chaffed a bit, rather embarrassing really. Mind you I am very fare and am quite prone to sunburn. We then went from Osaka Castle to Nipponbashi (Den Den Town) to check out the electrical / Otaku area of Osaka. Many of the shops are the same but if you want Anime, Manga, Old electrical equipment, or a Nintendo 64 or game boy console or game then this is your area! We also went to a Maid Café whilst there but if I had the choice of going to one in Osaka or Tokyo, I would’ve waited for Tokyo. It was really nice, the food was acceptable, the service was lovely but I think it was a little less eccentric than the ones we ended up seeing in Tokyo. Forever forward and back to Dontonbori for some Karaoke! We stopped by a Takoyaki shop and got our serve of octopus balls (they taste better than they sound) and then went to the Drunken Clam. This was an English karaoke bar where the singing was free but the drinks were a bit pricey. But if you are missing cider this is a good place to get a drink. Many a drink later, some free T-shirts, and lots and lots of singing we (somehow) managed to make our way back home. Was a great night and I highly recommend going there.
Day 3
Hangover day meant a bit of a sleep in, then off to Kobe to eat Kobe beef. Go figures. The weather wasn’t great but the beef was excellent and only a half hour train ride out of Osaka. We found it to be fairly expensive but you’ll feel incredibly spoilt after eating it. You’ll be disappointed by every other beef you eat thereafter… I know I have been. Because of the late start we didn’t really spend that much time in Kobe. We had a baseball match to get too. We had been trying to get tickets at the 7⁄11 but couldn’t figure out the system so we were hoping on just getting tickets at the gate, turns out they were sold out. But you may be lucky like we are and buy tickets off of a shady man selling his membership tickets for 5,000 yen a pop. So we took the deal and surprise! We were in and watching this awesome game of baseball. It was the Carps verses the Tigers, sadly the Tigers lost, but it was still amazing and the crowd was incredible to be around. Only downside was the fact it was raining a bit. After we’d seen as much baseball as we could we went home, and thus concludes day 3.
Day 4
Most of our days in Osaka we only really got one to two things in. I know some people with more energy or less time could mash a few of these days together but we were glad we had some time and could pace it all out a bit. Day four brought us to the Osaka Aquarium. Now I don’t know what I was really expecting from this place other than some fish, but it was actually huge! They send you to the top floor and you work your way down. In the middle of the aquarium is a huge tank housing many a things including sharks, rays, a few big fish and of course a whale shark which as pretty spectacular. You also see a few types of otters, go through the different oceans of the world and spend some time with seals and dolphins. What’s not to love? In the same area of Osaka they also have Legoland (which we didn’t know or budgeted for but checked out the shop anyway) as well as a huge Ferris wheel. We didn’t go up that either but hey if you’re into that sort of thing then why not right? We then went home for a bit before heading off to a concert. Sam bought tickets for an all girls punk band called Shonen Knife. Now if you get the opportunity to go see a band then do so. You’ll notice that the crowd is much different to Australian or even Americans. They are very polite, still enjoy themselves with dancing and jumping and such but know how to stay out of each other’s personal space in the process. They also have this knack of chanting in uniform. We then got some very impressive Sushi and it turns out I quite like Eel, which I thought I would never say. Then off to bed for us sleepy heads
Day 5
If you are a bit of a crafty person then get yourself to Tokyu Hands craft store whilst in Japan. It’s a multi-story (this one was 8) building of all of the craft supplies you could ever think of. I ended up buying some stamps for teaching and scrap paper for scrap booking but if you can wish it it will be at Tokyu Hands. Books, paints, pens, foam, wood, tools of all shapes and sizes, electrical equipment, leather etc. It was amazing and almost a bit overwhelming. We then struggled to find the Pokémon Centre but found it eventually. It was pretty packed and fairly awesome but still a bit of a disappointment. We eventually went to at least 3 Pokémon centres and I thought you would be able to find some more interesting things there but it was just the same merchandise everywhere. None the less I bought a keychain as that is what I do. I now have quite the keychain collection. Later that evening we ended up back in Shinsekai to see it at night and whilst we had some energy and ate back at the same place. On the way there we were interviewed by this man who wanted to practice his English and talk Australian politics, which was interesting. We had a sing on the walk back to our place and prepared ourselves for the train to Kyoto the next morning.
Kyoto
For Kyoto We had booked a ryokan as we wanted the traditional experience, we had planned to only stay two nights here as it is pretty expensive but honestly we could have spent longer as we put so much in to our few days. We were pretty exhausted by the time we left this beautiful city.
Day 6
So getting here form Osaka is only a half hour train ride, whether you take a regular train or the shinkansen. The only thing I wish I did was write down how to use the bus system from the train station to our ryokan. It was hot and an hours walk. We also found out that the east exit of the train station doesn’t actually point you east, it points you south. Which gave our bearings a bit of a turn around and we started to walk to wrong way for a bit. Anyway we eventually got to our ryokan after walking through the most beautiful park called Marayuma which is in the same location as the Yasaki Shrine which is beautiful. Half way up there’s these ponds with fish and birds and it is so peaceful and relaxing. No matter how steep the walk up to the ryokan was every day those ponds and the scenery were definitely worth it. After a shower and lots of cold water we went to the Gion district and found a Zen temple called Kenin-ji. You take your shoes off at the door, and walk through the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. It is just spectacular, and you do feel the Zen. There was a couple getting their wedding photos taken and they were wearing their traditional robes, they looked beautiful. Definitely worth a visit if your heading to Kyoto. We were pretty exhausted after our walk and couldn’t really find the other temples that we were looking for and by this stage it was late afternoon. So we got an icecream (this time charcoal bamboo chocolate) grabbed a few sandwiches from the old 7-11 and a couple of drinks and had dinner by the ponds. I fell in love with the ryokan but those tatami mats are not very padded. It is hard to sleep on your side especially with big hips. It was awesome to do the traditional thing but my sleep in Kyoto suffered because of it.
Day 7
We started this day with a complimentary breakfast which was just fantastic. Eggs, bread, jam, soup, banana. Was a great way to start the day. First thing up for today’s agenda was the Fushim-Inari shrine. This is what Sam was keen as beans for and I was pretty excited for it too. We were able to catch a train there which stopped pretty much right out front which was great. I am not so fit (yet) and the walk really did me in. It is steep, lots of steps and the weather was a bit crap. Was lightly raining in 32 degree weather with 100% humidity, I also could have chosen clothing better as my skirt kept sticking to my legs and made me want to rip it off. Anyway after many stops, more icecream, sweat and hard work we made it to the top. Not everyone does the whole walk but just do. You’ll thank yourself afterwards and the further round you go the quieter it is and you get better photos too. Plus it is more serene and enchanting on your way down. It took us about an hour to get up (maybe longer because I was pretty slow) and then 45 minutes or so to get down. Just be glad that there are vending machines to top up your liquid supplies on the walk around. We then made it to Kyoto Station for lunch before our next stop at the Golden Pavilion - Kinkakuji. You will find that the Japanese take great pride in their tickets, paperwork, stationary etc. and this pavilion had the most beautiful tickets, and yes I’ve kept most of them for scrapbooking. Now, the pavilion itself is just stunning, and true to its name, covered in gold. We took some pictures, were pushed through the crowd and walked past the few other shrines and things and then it was back on the bus. It felt a bit quick and you can sort of stay and look a bit longer but once you’ve seen it there isn’t a whole lot more you can do there. So another bus then took us to Nijō Castle…. Which was closed for the day. Some things in Japan are just randomly closed on random days. I think on a full moon, or a third Friday or maybe because someone’s aunt had a birthday, not too sure but sadly it was closed. So instead we strolled back through the Gion district, grabbed some ramen and back up to our ryokan for a shower. I love the way the Japanese bathe. Clean yourself off with the shower and then relax in the bath. I always hated baths because I always felt like I was bathing in my own muck, but the Japanese really figured it out, and it is so obvious really.
Day 8
Last day in Kyoto and we planned to visit one last shrine temple thing before heading off to Nagoya. We left the Ryokan and walked the 20 minutes to Kiyomizu-dera. The main selling point of this castle besides the views is that the structure was made without using a single nail. Cool right? Well it was but we were so tired and sore from the day before we didn’t enjoy it as much as I think we could have. And honestly we were a bit templed out. On the way up there as well the streets are lined with shops selling every kind of green tea creation ever thought of, fans, yukatas, food, knick knacks and paddy wacks. From there we found our way onto a bus which took us to the train station where we boarded the Shinkansen and headed to Nagoya.
Part 2 will include Nagoya and Tokyo so please have a read and I hope you’ve been getting some ideas for your possible future trips.